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Saturday, September 29, 2012

Nedbank Cape Wine Makers Guild 2012 Review


This year auction showcases 52 wines and earlier this month I attended the media tasting at Nitida winery in Durbanville.
The format is different in that of the public presentations which are sighted, on this day, 51 wines were poured and tasted blind.
It was a revelation to discover what is on offer at the finest wine auction in South Africa’s.
The standards of entries were as usual very high and make them serious collectible items, either to treasured or to be shared with friends and business associates or even from a wine listing perspectives, CWG wines have a unique selling point in comparison to other local wine auctions, as the wines do sell and move on top end wine lists versus other wine auction offerings!
The high price fetch from a South African perspective over the last couple of years are testament of their quality and rarity as well as the near icon status this auction have achieved in their 30 years of existence, however it’s worth mentioning that by world term the prices are still very competitive and in fact averages roughly around half if not less to what one will normally pay for similar quality at cost from wines produced elsewhere.
As an organization the CWG with the assistance of Nedbank is showing and moving forward Brand South Africa in terms of vinous perfections and young wine maker’s development as well as education, hence investing positively for the future, an effort which should be applauded and supported by all means, perhaps other local wine auctions can learn, follow and eventually implement.
The tasting reveals the two Methode Cap Classique sparkling wine were both very well made, the Graham Beck was substantially fresher and linear, marginally less rich than the Simonsig, though both will reward at least another 5 years on the cork, to reveal more complexity, they are hot candidates for buying.
The white wines was quite impressive to say the least, there were stellar examples of world class single varietal or white blends that can rival any benchmark wine made from same grape or style, they were thrilling drops, perfect in many sense with natural brightness and freshness, minerality, subtle oaking, linear and long and many are far from their peak.
The two Semillon are possibly the finest example of their kind ever made in South Africa, the Cederberg Ghost Corner screaming of minerality with a laser like purity and brightness was akin to liquid mineral with a dash of lime juice.
The one and only Sauvignon Blanc on auction made by Charles Hopkins of De Grendel was simply fantastic, it might not have the stamina of the other whites on offer, but it will reward plenty of drinking pleasure from now until the next 6 years.
The four Chardonnay’s from some of South Africa’s finest producers, did not disappoint either, they were right there as it would be expected, Burgundian profile with bright acidity and expert use of oak, they are embryonic at this stage and will deserves at least 3 years in the cellar to reveals complexities and texture at a fraction of the price of top Burgundies, yes South Africa has been making numerous example of world class Chardonnay’s in recent years.
If I had to choose one out of the four it will be the Ataraxia Chardonnay, it was  a mile ahead and simply have the slight advantage of the X Factor with an underlying je ne sais quoi to make it super sexy, I reckoned it will be a hotly contested wine for bidding!
The two Chenin blanc was equally very good and shows South Africa’s greatness at this variety, both were very much Vouvray like.
Last but not least, the best white wine of the line up and my first ever 95 points to a South African white wine, goes to no less than Cape Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend, simply world class drop, if you like Graves whites, I reckoned this wine will not be shy and will stand proudly if paired side by side to Haut Brion Blanc, do not think twice, this will be the BUY of the auction.
The reds tasting were quite a hit and miss affair.
Let me explain, there was many exciting examples from the 3 beautiful Pinot Noir, ok I tasted only two as the Paul Cluver Pinot Noir (wine number 52) was not available for tasting due to limited offerings of only 24 cases.
The De Grendel Op die Berg was the most subtle and elegant, yes it was unshowy and tight, but will blossom with a few years in bottle, since I suspect every bidders will go for Bouchard Finlayson and Paul Cluver, the De Grendel might turn out as probably the bargain Pinot of the auction, and represent the best quality vs value proposition, ignore at your peril.
There was the the two best kept secret in the red line up a cracker Beaujolais cru like Cinsault from Swartland made by Adi Badenhorst, clocking in 12.5% abv, it is super sexy and moreish, a must buy by all means, to drink now and the next year, then the second discovery is a true to type Nebbiolo from John Loubser, made from Constantia grapes.
The color was typical and perfect, the texture with it’s tannic grip as one would expect from this variety, will not be disappointed, those of you out there who like your Barbaresco in a more modern style will like this, this is to buy and surprise, will highlight any formal dinner parties.
The usual suspect of Pinotage, Bordeaux varieties and their blends as well as Syrah/Shiraz and Rhone style blends were more arduous to taste, of the 51 wines tasted in total, 24 wines were close or over 14.5% abv and 13 wines amongst the 24 was close and over 15% abv, pretty insane having alcohol of this level in wine at the table!
In fact the more I taste and select wines for eventual buying and future listings, I am more and more convinced that very high alcohol of 14.5% and above are in fact a winemaking faults, rather than the overuse cliché  and excuse of seeking proper physiological tannins ripeness, it’s possibly one of the key reasons why there is so few top South African wines listed on the best dining tables and wine lists around the world, when compared to other Southern Hemisphere wine producing countries!
I understand and respect CWG wines are the expression of any one of it’s current members best offerings, and they possibly represents the very best wines made and the winemakers intention is to reflect what he or she has on hand and probably the first and foremost intention was never to make wine to be paired with food, but rather the most “perfect” wine.
A serious concerned as over 46 percent of the auction offerings will simply crash and burned if they have to be served with delicate and classic cuisine, it will not work, ladies and gents! it will be very difficult to finish a bottle! Or in some cases a glass!
Too many red wines were showy, oaky, powerful and crammed with saturated dark red fruits, borderline raisin, i.e ripeness push to the limit, however the biggest let down were extractions that was too obvious combined with the high alcohol and some of my lowest scoring examples are from winemakers I have always enjoyed their wines, in fact their standard offerings are much better and these are guys with a wealth of experience, wonder why such a change in style for their auction offerings.
Other than that my top scoring red wines were fresh, vibrant, savory, delicate with plush tannin structure, alcohol completely integrated and they will reward medium to long term cellaring, yet have an immediate appeal, making them super sexy and irresistible now.
My top Merlot was the Hartenberg Loam Hill 2009, it shows how consistent this estate is with this variety, in most vintages.
My favorite Bordeaux style red blends was the Haskell Paradigm 2008, from a non Bordeaux style blend the Ernie Els, was the most exciting.
The one and only Rhone style blend, Graham Beck The Catalyst Shiraz Viognier 2010, was simply seductive.
Of the 7 Cabernet Sauvignon in the line up, the Tokara Auction Reserve 2010, was miles ahead in typicity, freshness and overall charm of the nearest on offer.
The Shiraz class was more promising with at least 3 worth seeking, Luddite The Reserve 2008 is the one to seek out.
Out of the 4 Pinotage the Kanonkop Estate 2010 was the sexiest and will reward many years of enjoyment ahead.
Last but not least the sweet wines, with a cracker Muscat Noble Late Harvest from Teddy Hall was revving with energy as well as an embryonic Cape Vintage fortified from Boplaas, that will stay for at least 2 decades, could be some of the best buy.

Individual tasting notes of each wines and the top 11 lists to follow.

Hereunder the ratings:

Methode Cap Classique
Graham Beck Non Plus Ultra Cap Classique Western Cape 2008 91+ Points
Simonsig Cuvee Chene Blanc de Blancs MCC 2007 91 Points
Sweet
Teddy Hall Eva (Krotoa) Constantia Muscat de Frontignan 2009 Noble Late Harvest 94 Points
Carel Nel Cape Vintage Auction Reserve Western Cape 2010 91 Points

Whites
Ataraxia Under the Gavel Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge Chardonnay 2011 92+ Points
Cape Point Vineyards Auction Reserve Cape Point White 2011 95 Points
Cederberg Ghost Corner Elim Semillon 92+ Points
Chamonix Franschhoek Chardonnay Auction Reserve 2011 91+ Points
De Grendel Amandelboord Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc 2012 91 Points
Jordan Auction Reserve Stellenbosch Chardonnay 2011 91+ Points
Paul Cluver The Wagon Trail Chardonnay 2010 91 Points
Rijk’s CWG Tulbagh Chenin Blanc 2011 90 Points
Saronsberg CWG Tulbagh Semillon 2008 90 Points
Teddy Hall Hendrik Biebouw Auction Reserve Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2011 91+


Reds
AA Badenhorst Family Wines Ramnas Gras Swartland Cinsaut 91 Points
Beyerskloof Traildust Stellenbosch Pinotage 2010 90
Boschkloof Bakhand Stellenbosch Shiraz 2010 88+ Points
Bouchard Finlayson Walker Bay Pinot Noir 2009 90+ Points
Cederberg Teen Die Hoog Cederberg Shiraz 2010 89+ Points
De Grendel Op Die Berg Western Cape Pinot Noir 2010 91 Points
De Trafford Stellenbosch Syrah 2009 86 Points
De Trafford Perspective Stellenbosch 2009 90 Points
Edgesbaston Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Auction Reserve 2010 86 Points
Etienne Le Riche Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Auction Reserve 2009 83 Points
Ernie Els CWG Stellenbosch 2010 92 Points
Graham Beck The Catalyst Robertson Shiraz & Viognier 2010 90 Points
Grangehurst Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Auction Reserve 2006 86 Points
Groot Constantia Estate CWG Constantia Shiraz 2009 90 Points
Hartenberg Estate Auction Stellenbosch Shiraz 2009 88 Points
Hartenberg Loam Hill Simonsberg-Stellenbosch Merlot 2009 91 Points
Haskell The Expatriate Stellenbosch 2010 89+ Points
Haskell Paradigm Stellenbosch 2008 91 Points
John Loubser Garibaldi Nebbiolo 2009 92 Point
Jordan Sophia Stellenbosch 2009 90+ Points
Kaapzicht Cape Blend Stellenbosch 2009 59 - 84+ Points
Kanonkop Estate CWG Paul Sauer Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2007 90 Points
Kanonkop CWG Paul Sauer Simonsberg-Stellenbosch 2009 88 Points
Kanonkop Estate CWG Simonsberg-Stellenbosch Pinotage 2010 91 Points
Kleine Zalze Granite Selection Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 79+ Points
Louis Laika Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 87 Points
Luddite The Reserve Western Cape Shiraz 2008 90+ Points
Luddite Oscar Cape South Coast Shiraz Mourvedre 2009 86 Points
Neil Ellis Auction Reserve Jonkershoek Valley 2007 89 Points
Overgaauw DC Classic Stellenbosch 2009 83 Points
Rijk’s CWG Tulbagh Pinotage 2010 83 Points
Rust en Vrede Estate Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 87 Points
Simonsig Estate Heirloom Stellenbosch Shiraz 2010 90+ Points
Spier Stellenbosch Merlot 2009 90 Points
Spier Stellenbosch Pinotage 2009 89 Points
Tokara Auction Reserve Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 91 Points
Waterford Estate Auction Reserve Stellenbosch BB 2009 87+ Points