A recent tasting of 4 wines from Plaisir de Merle was a good way to gauge how the winery had evolved over the last decade.
I had ad hoc tasting in the last 9 years I’ve been in South Africa, but first time all 4 wines together!
I am still convinced that the 1994 Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the finest Cabernet ever produce in South Africa, and had numerous bottles in the last 10 years, where it simply was getting better and better, yet shows no sign of tiring at all.
It should be noted for those that were not aware, when Plaisir de Merle started in the early 90’s, they had for consultant in no less than Dr Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux fame!
Back then Plaisir de Merle was setting a new quality standard for the new South Africa, that was bracing itself for a comeback to international wine trade.
With all due respect to soft spoken cellar master Niel Bester have been with the farm since 1993, which is long standing by SA standard, however after this tasting it is obvious that Plaisir de Merle have not maintain what they started, the wines are well made, very commercial in profile, and gauging from the styles there seem to be a lack of direction as well as identity, yes they are Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay or Shiraz or a red blend, as it is on the label, which could have been made anywhere in the Cape.
It seems the wines are made to a foursquare formula, they are too safe and one dimensional, lacking character, typicity, freshness and depth of complexity to be exciting, the sense of place was just not there!
Will revisit end 2013.
